We've just come back from a four-night trip to South Australia, and I'm feeling very pleased with myself. It's Michael's birthday next week, and he usually does lovely things for
my birthday and I am often lacking in inspiration when it comes to him, but this year I had some ideas and booked this trip while Michael was away in Europe. It's been tricky to conceal the details from him, but he honestly didn't know where he was going until we were on the way to the airport on Tuesday morning. Hooray!
Our itinerary was two nights in a lovely
cottage in the middle of a vineyard in McLaren Vale, home of some GREAT wines and only about 40 kms from Adelaide, then two nights in a studio apartment in the city itself.
This was the unbearable view from the back patio, out over the vineyards to the limestone hills beyond...I'm not sure how we coped with the beauty of it all! The landlady was very pleasant, we found everything we needed in the village just down the road, and we had a very relaxing time. A highlight was lunch at the
d'Arenberg restaurant nearby -
d'Arenberg wines have been a favourite ever since we sampled our first bottle of
Dead Arm shiraz, and it was delightful to sit on their terrace after a strenuous half-hour of tasting, to savour a slap-up three-course lunch. I was the designated driver for the day, and so Michael was able to have a couple of great glasses of red wine with his meal.
We visited Hahndorf, founded by German colonists and home to Sir Hans Heysen, a famous Australian painterWe were loath to leave McLaren Vale and very nearly cancelled our trip to Adelaide in order to stay an extra two days in the peace of the vineyards, but in the end we decided to continue as planned. Hahndorf was quaint but too full of craft shops for Michael's liking! I enjoyed the chance to snap up some decent presents and cards for people, since Coffs Harbour doesn't really do that sort of things very well.
Hahndorf's main street is planted with deciduous trees - unusual for Australia Next stop Adelaide, and the apartment I'd chosen was pretty awful: basically a grotty hotel room with two beds and a small bathroom, and not even a view out of the window (which looked into a concrete light well). I was very disappointed, but we made the best of it. Amazing how you can cook egg and beans on toast with only a microwave and two tea cups!
The only thing that was good about the apartment was its location, at one end of the main run of resturants and cafes, and very close to China Town and the fabulous central food market: 250 mouth-watering stalls. And our mouths
were watering: at least a dozen great cheese stalls, a similar number of specialist butchers,
fragrant bakeries with freshly made croissants and baklava, exotic florists, delicatessens... oh that Coffs Harbour had even one of each type, but sadly it doesn't. We have heard that 5 - 10 years ago Coffs Harbour was great for foodies, but it's changed over the years - we're just hoping that future expansion plans mean that its gastronomic star starts to rise again.
One thing Adelaide does have is early cottages and historic buildings, often decorated with traditional 'lacework' iron mongery
These workers cottages are near Haigh's Chocolate Factory - very quaint!One thing I did manage to do while we were in Adelaide is to go shopping, taking advantage of the fact that although the city is probably smaller than Coffs Harbour, it has all the facilities of a state capital, including a big branch of David Jones, which sells Michael's favourite tea in the food hall, and which also had a proper childrens' shoe department. I find it amazing that I can't get decent, fitted, shoes for Ella in Coffs Harbour. It's madening
and frustrating to have to get on a plane in order to get her a pair of shoes! But we succeeded and she's now the proud owner of a pair of (pink - it hardly needs saying)
Mary Jane shoes by OshKosh.
These pigs are in the central shopping street! They've got names, but I can't remember what they are...We finished our trip with a visit to
Haigh's Chocolate Factory - where sadly we couldn't get on factory tour - and the zoo (see next post!), and then flew home.