Those of you who have witnessed the vastness of my baggage on previous visits will be surprised to hear that I managed to spend a single night in Sydney with only one, half-full rucksack... There were two reasons for this: firstly I was only there for a night and didn't think that merited checked-in luggage, and secondly it seems that a bunch of world leaders thought they'd drop in on Sydney to have some APEC meeting, do a bit of shopping and catch up with the animals at the zoo. The resulting security lock-down in Sydney is amazing and ridiculous and I felt it would be better to be travelling light.
APEC is all Sydney-siders seem to be talking about at the moment, from the taxi driver to the newsagent. I wanted to see things that are close to or within the security perimeter and although all the information said it would be 'business as usual' at least at this end of the week, it really wasn't. For starters there is now a 5-kilometer 12 foot high metal and mesh fence around the CBD and the Opera House, which has closed roads and created pedestrian 'check points' at designated crossings. While I wasn't stopped and searched I was certainly scrutinised, by CCTV, the many groups of policemen and 'HazMat' agents ('hazardous materials', I gather) and the strange cars with jamming and video surveillance equipment cruising down the streets. Restaurants and cafes around Circular Quay are empty; I had the restaurant at the MCA to myself when I stopped long enough to have a coffee; and the staff at the Royal Botanic Gardens Shop greeted me like a long-lost friend after I'd braved a maze of blocked turnings, police blockades and manned crossings to find a way into the gardens to see the orchid displays...
I have never experienced anything like it, not just from a practical 'how do I now get from A to B?' point of view but also from the simmering resentment that is evident. People in the city are actively furious: how dare Bush swan into town with his 250 CIA agents, 4 chefs and 3 plane loads of staff - and, to make it worse - arbitarily decide to arrive two days earlier than planned in order to have a 'bi-lateral lunch' with Johnnie Howard, thus throwing all the careful arrangements into disorder? Australian tax payers will be footing a bill $370
million dollars - which includes optional day-trips for the entourage, including a visit to the zoo animals. Note that I didn't say 'to the zoo' - oh no. That would be too much of a security risk, so star animals have been transported to Garden Island from Taronga Park so that the ladies who lunch can view them in comfort and in more easily defendable surroundings.
Apparently we're all supposed to feel honoured and priviledged that Bush agreed to Howard's request to hold the meeting in little old Australia. I think it might have been planned as a triumphant proclamation of Australia's "special relationship" with the USA in the twilight of Howard's loyal premiership, just before the November elections and I suspect it was thought that the war in Iraq would be 'going well' by now so the meeting could be seen as a pat on the back for Howard. Sad how things turn out, isn't it? Sydney-siders are furious about the disruption, Australian tax-payers are furious about the bill, and every second person is scathing about the war. So I hope everyone enjoys their little outings around the Harbour this week: a Southerly change has blown in and as my flight took off it began to pour with rain.